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Puppy's First Grooming
It is important that you acclimate your new addition to the grooming environment. A puppy's first experience at the groomers should be as enjoyable and comfortable as possible. With most dogs needing to be groomed every 4 to 8 weeks and the dogs average life span 12-14 years, grooming is something that should be started as soon as possible. With our cage free environment, puppies will not only become accustomed to the sights, smells, and sounds of a grooming shop, but they will also get play time with the other "kids". Whether it be just a bath and a trim, so Mommy and Daddy can see those beautiful baby eyes, or their first "big kid haircut" our knowledgeable groomers will work with both you and your baby to make the grooming experience one you will both enjoy.
Play with their feet: A puppies feet can be the most ticklish part of their body, so while you are enjoying snuggle time, rub their feet. Discourage "mouthing" (play biting) and reward them lavishly when they allow you to rub their feet without a fuss.
Face & Eyes: Sometimes a pair of clippers or scissors between a puppies eyes and around the face can frighten them, but by taking a silver spoon and gently rubbing it on the bridge of their nose (the area between their eyes and down to their nose), you can help to familiarize them with the feeling of something being there.
Brushing & Combing: while brushing and combing is important for a dog of any age, it is especially important for a puppy. You should not brush and comb your puppy on the floor, your puppy will think of it as play time. If there are two of you, you can try placing your puppy on a table, counter, or washer/dryer (place puppy on a towel or mat to avoid slipping), have your helper hold your puppy in place. Brush lightly over the body telling them what a good dog they are. When your "work" time is over (brushing and combing)…Give your puppy a special treat, one they only get for grooming. This will make it a pleasant experience for your puppy to look forward to everyday.
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MATTIE and JAKE (making friends)
There is a common misconception among some pet owners that dogs and cats cannot co-exist together within a house. While there are some breeds of dogs that do not naturally interact well with other pets most breeds of dogs can be socialized to interact appropriately with cats and live together in a house. The way that the two species are introduced to each other as well as the age of both the dog and cat are key. In addition the pets prior history with the other species really makes a difference as well.
MAGGIE and JACK (playing "attack cat!")
Puppies and cats
If you are considering bringing home a new puppy and you currently have cats there are some steps that you can do to provide the best possible first meeting.
· Keep the puppy separate from the cats for the first few days.
· Allow the cats to smell the blankets that the puppy has slept on and vice versa.
· Hold the puppy and allow the cats to smell him or her without the puppy being able to move towards the cats. This is best done if the puppy is held securely on the floor or on a lap.
· Once they have had a chance to see each other when the puppy is under control consider allowing the puppy to walk around the room with the cats.
· The cats should not be held; rather they should be allowed to move away from the puppy when they want.
· If the puppy barks or attempts to chase the cats correct the puppy with a quick "No" and give them an appropriate toy to play with. Soon the puppy will realize that they are to chew on the toy, not try to chase the cats.
· Supervise all interactions between the cat and puppy until you are confident that they are well socialized. This may take several weeks depending on the comfort level of the cat and the size of the puppy.
Remember the younger this process starts the easier it will be. Keep in mind that some breeds are naturally more aggressive, particularly terriers and other hunting breeds such as Akitas, Dobermans, Rottweilers and hound varieties. Some of the smaller and toy dogs are also not well suited to interacting with cats, so research the breed and talk to current owners and breeders before you choose.
JACK and MAGGIE (playing)
Dogs and cats
If you are considering a mature dog from a rescue or private home be sure to ask if they get along with cats. Most mature dogs that have been properly socialized with cats will get along with all cats after an initial "get to know each other" period. Often this is relatively short, lasting only a couple of days. Some mature dogs do very will with cats in the house but will immediately chase the same cat if they are outside. Carefully monitoring the dog and cat for the first few days is key for both safety and security for the cat and dog.
If you are not sure if the dog is socialized with cats assume that they are not, especially for large breeds of dogs or hunting type dogs including terriers. Keep the dog and the cat separate and only try to introduce them if the dog is on a very short leash and you have another adult there to work with the cat.
Often mature dogs will not interact well with cats but may develop an attitude of ignoring the cat. This may be acceptable but does not mean that the dog may not become aggressive towards the cat under certain conditions. Consider crate training or keeping your dog in a kennel or separate room when you are not able to supervise to prevent any fighting between the two species.
Most breeds of dogs do well with cats, especially when they are introduced slowly and at a young age. Proper socialization with other species will make your dog more accepting of all sorts of animals and will minimize their aggression towards others.

ROXY and CLEO (friends for life)
Find hundreds more articles like this at http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com, where you can also find unique dog beds, dog supplies, and pet furniture that you'll never find at your local pet store. In fact, if you later find your order being sold at your local Petco, we'll refund your purchase plus an extra $20!
Article Source: Kelly Marshall - Ezine
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EMMA and JAKE
We are having record breaking HOT weather all over the country; some heat indexs are reaching over 115 degrees. Please take care of your "BEST FRIEND!" Below are Summer Care Tips from the ASPCA for your Pet :
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We all love spending the long, sunny days of summer outdoors with our furry companions, but being overeager in hot weather can spell danger, warn ASPCA experts.
"Even the healthiest pets can suffer from dehydration, heat stroke and sunburn if overexposed to the heat," says Dr. Lila Miller, ASPCA Vice President of Veterinary Outreach, "and heat stroke can be fatal if not treated promptly."
Take these simple precautions, provided by ASPCA experts, to help prevent your pet from overheating. And if you suspect your pet is suffering from heat stroke, get help from your veterinarian immediately.
Visit the Vet
A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must. Make sure your pets get tested for heartworm if they aren't on year-round preventive medication. Do parasites bug your animal companions? Ask your doctor to recommend a safe flea and tick control program.
Made in the Shade
Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give them plenty of fresh, clean water when it's hot outdoors. Make sure your pets have a shady place to get out of the sun, be careful to not over-exercise them, and keep them indoors when it's extremely hot.
Know the Warning Signs
According to Dr. Lila Miller, ASPCA Vice President of Veterinary Outreach, "symptoms of overheating in pets include excessive panting or difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, drooling, mild weakness, stupor or even collapse. They can also include seizures, bloody diarrhea and vomit along with an elevated body temperature of over 104 degrees." Animals with flat faces, like Pugs and Persian cats, are more susceptible to heat stroke since they cannot pant as effectively. These pets, along with the elderly, the overweight, and those with heart or lung diseases, should be kept cool in air-conditioned rooms as much as possible.
No Parking!
Never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle. "On a hot day, a parked car can become a furnace in no time—even with the windows open—which could lead to fatal heat stroke," says Dr. Louise Murray, Director of Medicine at ASPCA Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital. Also, leaving pets unattended in cars in extreme weather is illegal in several states.
Make a Safe Splash
Do not leave pets unsupervised around a pool—not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure they wear flotation devices when on boats. Rinse your dog off after swimming to remove chlorine or salt from his fur, and try to keep your dog from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset.
Screen Test
"During warmer months, the ASPCA sees an increase in injured animals as a result of High-Rise Syndrome, which occurs when pets—mostly cats—fall out of windows or doors and are seriously or fatally injured," says Dr. Murray. "Pet owners need to know that this is completely preventable if they take simple precautions." Keep all unscreened windows or doors in your home closed and make sure adjustable screens are tightly secured.
Summer Style
Giving your dog a lightweight summer haircut helps prevent overheating. Shave down to a one-inch length, never to the skin, so your dog still has some protection from the sun. Brushing cats more often than usual can prevent problems caused by excessive heat. As far as skin care, be sure that any sunscreen or insect repellent product you use on your pets is labeled specifically for use on animals.
Street Smarts
When the temperature is very high, don't let your dog linger on hot asphalt. Being so close the ground, your pooch's body can heat up quickly, and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum.
Avoid Chemicals
Commonly used flea and tick products, rodenticides (mouse and rat baits), and lawn and garden insecticides can be harmful to cats and dogs if ingested, so keep them out of reach. When walking your dog, steer clear of areas that you suspect have been sprayed with insecticides or other chemicals. Keep citronella candles, oil products and insect coils out of pets' reach as well. Call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 if you suspect your animal has ingested a poisonous substance.
Party Animals
Taking Fido to a backyard barbeque or party? Remember that the food and drink offered to guests may be poisonous to pets. "Keep alcoholic beverages away from pets, as they can cause intoxication, depression and comas," says Dr. Steven Hansen, ASPCA Senior Vice President of Animal Health Services. "Similarly, remember that the snacks enjoyed by your human friends should not be a treat for your pet; any change of diet, even for one meal, may give your dog or cat severe digestive ailments. Avoid raisins, grapes, onions, chocolate and products with the sweetener xylitol."
Fireworks Aren't Very Pet-riotic
Please leave pets at home when you head out to Fourth of July celebrations, and never use fireworks around pets. "Exposure to lit fireworks can potentially result in severe burns or trauma to curious pets, and even unused fireworks can be hazardous," says Dr. Hansen. "Many types of fireworks contain potentially toxic substances such as potassium nitrate, copper, chlorates, arsenic and other heavy metals."
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Guesting: NAPPS

ROXY
NAPPS issues cautionary message to pet parents regarding the hidden dangers of dog parks
The dog days of summer are quickly approaching, and with the warming weather comes an increase in outdoor pet activities, including dog park visits. To help protect the health and well-being of dogs across the country, the National Association of Professional Pet Sitters (NAPPS) is educating pet parents on the hidden dangers of dog parks.
“Pet parents are drawn to the wonderful social and exercise benefits of dog parks, but few are aware that dog parks can impose health risks on their beloved pet,” explained Monica Leighton, President of the NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF PET SITTERS (NAPPS). “At the core of NAPPS’ mission is a commitment to the welfare of animals. We urge pet parents to fully investigate the hidden dangers of dog parks before visiting one to protect their pet.”
Should a pet parent choose to visit a dog park, NAPPS has prepared the following tips to help make the visit both fun and safe:
• Bring a container of water to the park for your dog. The provided water stations are often used by raccoons or other wildlife during the night, and can spread dangerous infections, such as leptospirosis, a potentially fatal bacterial disease.
• Carefully wipe your dog’s paws after leaving the dog park. The park’s soil can be a source of parasites and diseases and should be cleaned from the dog’s paws immediately.
• Make sure your dog is up-to-date on vaccinations prior to visiting the dog park. Through playful activity, pets can be exposed to other dogs that have not received proper vaccinations.
NAPPS provides numerous safety tips and resources to pet parents on its website, including a disaster preparedness guide, a pet sitter locator tool and information on finding and securing a professional pet sitter.
About NAPPS: NAPPS is a national non-profit trade association dedicated to promoting the welfare of animals. The Association aims to help the pet owning public, those interested in pet sitting, and professionals engaged in the in-home pet care industry by fulfilling its vision statement, “To be the most respected authority in professional pet sitting.” It does so by providing the tools and support to foster the success of its members. Additionally, pet parents can benefit from NAPPS’ free resources including a disaster preparedness guide, tips on how to select a pet sitter, nationwide referral service, and quarterly teleconferences aimed to educate the pet owning public. To find a pet sitter in your area, check out NAPPS’ nationwide “Pet Sitter Locator” by clicking here: NAPPS. For more information on NAPPS, please follow@TheNAPPS on Twitter or join us on Facebook at facebook.com/TheNAPPS.
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I found a great article on the Pet Poison Helpline site and thought I would share it. It's a bit
long but very important information to know because it lists all kinds of things in your yard that could harm your pet.

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By Jo Marshall, CVT and Justine Lee, DVM, DACVECC
Summer is finally here, and with that comes a myriad of fun outdoor activities along with home and garden projects. While summer is meant for relaxing at the lake with friends picnicking, watching fireworks, and cleaning up and readying yards and gardens for the upcoming growing season, it's potentially fraught with toxic exposure to your pets! Summertime brings new opportunities for potential pet exposures to harmful and dangerous substances. During the summer months, Pet Poison Helpline (PPH) is inundated with calls involving yard and garden products (including bone meal, fertilizers, and insecticides), mulch and compost pile ingestions, and exposures to outdoor plants and mushrooms.1 As with all poisonings, early recognition and decontamination (including emesis induction and activated charcoal administration) are key to a successful outcome. Here is some basic information for you to know about when dealing with these exposures.
Compost bins or piles: While we applaud you for composting, make sure to do so appropriately your compost shouldn't contain any dairy or meat products, and should always be fenced off for the sake of your pets and wildlife. These piles of decomposing and decaying organic matter and molding food products have the potential to contain tremorgenic mycotoxins, which are toxic to both pets and wildlife. Even small amounts ingested can result in clinical signs within 30 minutes to several hours. Clinical signs include agitation, hyperthermia, hyper-responsiveness, panting, drooling, and vomiting, and can progress to serious CNS signs (including incoordination, tremors, and seizures!). Ruleouts for this include toxins that cause shake and bake, such as metaldehydes (snail bait), strychnine, organophosphates, and methylxanthines. Prompt decontamination is the key if the patient isn't demonstrating clinical signs yet this includes inducing vomiting and giving activated charcoal. Once the patient is symptomatic, aggressive supportive care includes the use of IV fluids, temperature regulation, cooling methods (cooling down to a temperature of 103.5 F/39.7 C), IV muscle relaxants (methocarbamol), and anticonvulsants (i.e., diazepam, phenobarbital).
Slug and Snail Baits: Slug and snail baits are commonly used on the West coast and in warm-weather conditions, and are available in a variety of forms (pellets, granular, powder, and liquid). The active ingredient is typically metaldehyde, which is toxic to all species (particularly dogs).2 When ingested, metaldehyde results in clinical signs that resulted in the nickname shake and bake. Within 1 to 2 hours of ingestion, clinical signs of salivation, restlessness, vomiting, and incoordination are seen, which then progress to tremors, seizures, and secondary severe hyperthermia. Treatment consists of early decontamination, supportive care, temperature regulation (cooling down to a temperature of 103.5 F/39.7 C), anticonvulsants, and muscle relaxants. Generally, the prognosis is favorable if treatment is quickly and aggressively implemented.
Mole and Gopher Bait: Surprisingly, most veterinary professionals aren't very familiar with mole and gopher baits, which typically contain zinc phosphide. Other types may contain bromethalin. Neither of these active ingredients have an antidote and both can result in rapidly developing, life-threatening symptoms. Zinc phosphide is often manufactured in a poisoned peanut form but can also be found in a pelleted or powdered form. When zinc phosphide combines with gastric acid, it results in rapid phosphine gas formation within the stomach. This toxin is made worse by the presence of food in the stomach, so make sure acutely poisoned pets aren't fed anything when this toxicity occurs! This gas causes severe gastrointestinal inflammation, abdominal distension, and cardiovascular insufficiency (similar to symptoms of a GDV or bloat). Pulmonary congestion and edema may also occur.1 Clinical signs develop rapidly within 15 minutes to several hours and include vomiting, salivation, abdominal discomfort, bloating, depression, labored breathing, tremors, and weakness.1 Once clinical signs have developed, the prognosis is guarded.2 A word of caution to veterinary staff: second hand phosphine gas exposure can result in significant health risks to healthcare providers working in unventilated areas. By the time the phosphine gas odor has been recognized (which smells like rotten fish and garlic), there has already been significant exposure to staff.2 So, whenever inducing emesis in a patient with this toxicity, do so in a well ventilated, outdoor area, and contact Pet Poison Helpline for more information on treatment.The other toxin is bromethalin, a neurotoxin, which is found in a pelleted grain or as a gummy worm-shaped strip. These lanced gummy worms are placed underground as mole bait. Dogs can readily dig this product up and ingest it. Because cats aren't typically digging outside, there are fewer exposures to cats that said, cats are very sensitive to bromethalin also. Bromethalin results in signs of cerebral edema (mentally obtunded, seizures, abnormal pupils, etc.), incoordination, and paralysis. As no antidote is available, treatment is centered around aggressive decontamination to limit absorption, supportive care, and drugs to decrease cerebral edema (i.e., Mannitol). The prognosis is based on the amount ingested and the severity of clinical signs. The more severe the symptoms, the more guarded the prognosis becomes.
Plants: Most garden and food producing plants are non-toxic to pets, and only result in mild gastrointestinal upset when ingested. That said, here are a few common summer plants that can cause concerns when eaten by pets:Tomato plants are in the Nightshade family and contain tomatine. Tomatine is found in concentrations of up to 5% in the leafy greens, the fruit blossoms, and in small green tomatoes; this concentration rapidly decreases as the tomato ripens. When stems, vines and green fruit are ingested, clinical signs can include gastrointestinal irritation, ataxia, and weakness. Treatment is purely supportive with an overall good prognosis. Rhubarb leaves contain oxalic acid, calcium oxalate and potassium oxalate and can result in oral and gastrointestinal irritation causing vomiting and diarrhea.4 Treatment includes symptomatic and supportive care. Onions and garlic, when ingested in large amounts, can result in Heinz body formation and anemia. Cats are more sensitive than dogs to Allium toxiciosis.5 Clinical signs are generally secondary to the anemia, with resultant weakness, lethargy and pale mucous membranes. Grapes (or raisins) grown in home gardens can present significant concerns when dogs ingest them. Although the mechanism of action is not clearly understood at this time, grapes can result in anorexia, vomiting, diarrhea, and potentially severe acute renal failure. The toxicity is not necessarily dose-dependent, and symptoms can occur with even small ingestions. Decontamination, aggressive supportive care, IV fluid therapy, and BUN/creatinine monitoring is recommended.
Mushrooms: There are various types of mushrooms located throughout the United States that may be non-toxic; however, other types of mushrooms may be gastric irritants, hallucinogenic, or hepatotoxic (from cyclopeptides, hydrazine toxins, isoxazoles, or psilocybin compounds).5 The frequency of mushroom toxicity is low, but the lack of readily available identification of mushrooms lands all ingestions in the category of toxic until proven otherwise. With ingestion of any mushroom, immediate emesis is recommended, provided the animal is alert, asymptomatic, and able to adequately protect his or her upper airway. Gastric lavage may be necessary for animals already exhibiting clinical signs. Clinical symptoms are dependent on the species of mushroom ingested, the specific toxin within that mushroom, and the individual?s own susceptibility. 5 Early clinical signs include vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, ataxia, CNS depression, tremors, and seizures, with liver and renal damage occurring later. One can collect all the pieces of the mushroom in a paper towel, place them in a labeled (DO NOT EAT! POISONOUS) paper bag, and refrigerate the sample for future possible identification.
Mulch Products: Cocoa bean mulch, a byproduct of chocolate production, is the discarded hulls or shells of the cocoa bean. This mulch is frequently used for home landscaping and is often very fragrant, especially when first placed in the yard and warmed by the sun. This tempting smell of warm chocolate often attracts and encourages dogs (Labradors!) to ingest the mulch. Through the processing procedure of creating cocoa bean mulch, much of the methylxanthine poison is removed, but still potentially contains 0.19% to 2.98% theobromine and 0.5% to 0.85% caffeine.2 All animals can be affected by methyxanthylates, but dogs tend to have more frequent exposure opportunities to the chocolates, coffee beans and cocoa mulch that contain them. Clinical signs include vomiting, diarrhea, hyperactivity, tremors, tachycardia, tachypnea, and potential seizures.1,2 Symptoms are dose-dependent and an accurate dose is very difficult to determine because of the variation of the concentration of methyxanthylates from one mulch product to next. There have been anecdotal reports of a dog dying after ingesting cocoa bean shell mulch, and this has been rapidly circulating on the Internet. That said, how toxic is this stuff, really? The first report of this poisoning was actually reported by Pet Poison Helpline's Drs. Lynn Hovda and R. Kingston at the 1993 International Congress of Clinical Toxicology. Dr. Steve Hansen from ASPCA published this again 10 years later (Clin Tox 2003;41:5). Recently, Dr. Hansen stated that the cause of the one fatality ( a young Labrador) was "highly suspect." While theobromine and caffeine (methylxanthines) can be toxic, clinical signs are usually more PROGRESSIVE - such as vomiting, diarrhea, more vomiting, trembling, a racing heart rate, and then seizures in very high doses. Cocoa bean mulch is very unlikely to result in sudden death without showing other signs. Nevertheless, play it safe and don't allow pets to ingest this product! Typically, after a first rain, the smell dissipates, making the mulch less attractive to pets.
Salt water toxicity: While it's probably not at the top of your toxin lists, salt water is a dangerous poison, particularly if you take your dog to the beach! If your dog loves to play on the ocean beach, heed caution. Dogs don't realize that salt water is dangerous, and excessive intake can result in severe hypernatremia, or salt poisoning. While initial signs of hypernatremia include vomiting and diarrhea, salt poisoning can progress quickly to neurologic signs like walking drunk, seizures, progressive depression, and ultimately, severe brain swelling. Hypernatremia needs to be treated very carefully with IV fluids by your veterinarian. Help avoid the problem by carrying a fresh bottle of tap water and offering it to your dog frequently while he's frolicking on the beach.
Fertilizers: Fertilizers come in a variety of forms - granular to water soluble and are soil amendment products routinely used in lawn, garden and farming. There are virtually hundreds of products and product formulations or mixes out there, and most contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in various concentrations. The three numbers that you see listed behind a fertilizer name (i.e., 10:20:10) represent the concentration of these three elements. Typically, limited ingestions of these ingredients generally do not result in significant concerns and are a relatively low level toxicity risk. With most case of fertilizer ingestion, clinical signs are limited to gastrointestinal irritation and foreign body obstruction risk (particularly if organic compounds such as bone meal are mixed in, adding in a risk for pancreatitis!). Keep in mind that there are some fertilizers that contain iron, along with other herbicide and pesticide additives, and these pose additional concerns and can result in significant health concerns.
Herbicides: Herbicides rarely result in concerns when used and applied according to the label directions, provided pets have been kept off the treated surfaces until the applied product has dried completely. However, when applied inappropriately, or when pets chew containers of concentrated product, there is a significant increase in the likelihood of potential toxicity. Clinical signs are dose and product dependent. Glyphosate and 2,4-D are two of the most commonly used herbicides.3 Ingestions of glyphosate concentrates can result in drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, anorexia and lethargy.1,2 With ingestion of concentrated 2,4-D, clinical signs include vomiting and weakness.3 While there are no antidotes for these products, prompt, supportive care (including IV or SC fluids and anti-emetics) generally provide a good prognosis.
Pesticides: Today's pesticides are much safer than products used 30 years ago. Examples of newer pesticides include fipronil, imidicloprid, sulfuramide and hydramethylnon. Many of these products have very low percentages of the active ingredient and are poorly absorbed systemically in mammalian species. Pesticides typically have wide margins of safety and are relatively low risk to pets. Like herbicides, when these products are applied appropriately and according to the label directions, these are minimal concern to pets. That said, these products often are mixed with bone meal, which makes it attractive and palatable to dogs. While the bone meal does not pose a significant toxicity concern, it can result in gastrointestinal irritation, severe pancreatitis and a possible foreign body obstruction (as it creates a big ball of bone in the stomach). More importantly, this increase in palatability can greatly increase the amount of the pesticide ingested. Organophosphates and carbamates are dangerous pesticide exposures because they are competitive inhibitors of acetylcholinesterase. These pesticides are easily and rapidly absorbed from a variety of routes.4 The anticholinesterase properties result in clinical signs with an easy-to-remember acronym SLUDGE: salivation, lacrimation, urination, defecation, and gastroenteritis. Other clinical signs include weakness, bradycardia, mydriasis or miosis, ataxia, paralysis, and respiratory depression. Death typically occurs from severe bronchial secretions, resulting in the patient drowning in their lungs and secondary, severe hypoxemia. The two antidotes are pralidoxime chloride (2PAM) and high-dose atropine.2 These antidotes must be given rapidly for the best prognosis. Rapid decontamination in asymptomatic animals includes inducing emesis, gastric lavage, and activated charcoal. Once patients are clinically symptomatic, aggressive supportive care, oxygen saturation monitoring, anti-convulsant therapy, diphenhydramine for tremors, IV fluid therapy, and intensive monitoring is necessary.
Fireworks: These can result in burns; injury to the mouth, eyes, or paws; and possible heavy metal toxicity if ingestion. Fireworks can contain iron, copper, barium, mercury, phosphorus and magnesium in the coloring agents.1 The amount of heavy metal varies widely, depending on the type of fireworks, quantity ingested, and coloring agent used.1 Clinical symptoms seen with fireworks ingestion include vomiting, diarrhea, jaundice, tremors and seizures. Induction of emesis and activated charcoal are not recommended and animals should be immediately evaluated at a veterinary clinic for injury.
Bluegreen algae or cyanobacteria: Growth of toxic algae can be found in both fresh and salt water throughout the warm regions of the world. Blue-green algae becomes concerning when algae accumulates on the surface of the water during hot, dry weather with wind that can shift concentrated algae mats along the shorelines.1 Affected water may have the appearance of pea soup with thick layers of algae on the surface. Blooms of blue-green algae can contain hepatoxins and/or neurotoxins, depending on the species. Exposures occur when dogs ingest or swim water that contains the cyanobateria. Clinical signs with the hepatoxin variety are vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, weakness, shock, icterus, and potentially death within 24 hours to several days. Clinical signs seen with ingestion of neurotoxin species occur acutely with onset of tremors, lethargy, seizures and respiratory distress and death within a hour.3 Spring and summer preventative wellness visits to the clinic are the perfect time for client education these visits also serve as an opportunity to reminder pet owners about potential hazards that may have been out of sight during the colder months of the year. Education of staff and pet owners has proven to be the best method of preventing exposures to potentially harmful substances in animals. This coupled with information on when to seek prompt veterinary intervention and care will help keep your patients happy and healthy through the busy summer months ahead!
Resource: Pet Poison Helpline (PPH) is an Animal Poison Control that provides treatment advice and recommendations relating to exposures to potential dangerous plants, products, medications , and substances, to veterinarians, veterinary staff and pet owners 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Please be aware there is a $35/per case consultation fee. Pet Poison Helpline is located in Bloomington, Minnesota. The Helpline number is 1-800-213-6680. For further information regarding services, visit the PPH website at www.petpoisonhelpline.com.
References:
1. Pet Poison Helpline Case Database: Unpublished data, Bloomington, MN, 2004 ? 2009.
2. Plumlee KH: Clinical Veterinary Toxicology, St Louis, MO, Mosby, 2004. pp322-325.
3. Peterson ME, Talcott PA (eds): Small Animal Toxicology, ed. 2, St Louis, MO, Elsevier Saunders, 2001.
4. Gfeller RW, Messonnier SP: Handbook of Small Animal Toxicology and Poisoning, St Louis, MO, Mosby, 1998.
5. Burrows GE, Tyrl RJ: Toxic Plants of North America, Ames. Iowa , Iowa State University Press, 2001.
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"BRODY"
With all the concern about the EPA spot-on issues, it's important to apply flea and tick preventatives appropriately and carefully! When it comes to properly using and applying flea and tick medications, here are some important considerations:
1. Make sure you know the exact weight of your pet before purchasing a product. Your vet should allow you to weigh your pet for free! This is important because a lot of toxicities seen with flea and tick medication are from inappropriate dosing. Never guess your pet's weight. As a comparison, keep in mind that one gallon of milk weighs approximately 8 pounds.
2. Read the package directions, and then read them again! Despite the small print, it's important to know how to properly apply the flea and tick product. We see lots of inadvertent, unintentional toxicities from pet owners applying the product onto the wrong sized animal, the wrong species (putting a dog product on a cat), and by the wrong route (i.e., some people accidentally give the product orally instead of dermally on the skin!).
3. If you have both cats and dogs, beware. Certain types of flea and tick preventative are very safe for dogs, but very toxic to cats. Using a "small dog" product on a cat can result in life-threatening tremors, seizures, and even death if untreated! If you just applied the product to your dog, and your cat grooms or rubs himself onto the dog (and ointment), toxicity can occur! Separating pets until the product is completely dried is important!
4. When in doubt, call for help. If you think you applied the product erroneously, or if your pet develops adverse reactions, call your veterinarian immediately. In addition, there is often a medical information phone number listed on the packaging - these are typically open 24/7, so when in doubt, call for medical advice!
5. Make sure to always store the box, packaging, and tubing all together, so you have all the information in one area. After using the product, hang on to box for few days, in the event of a reaction.
6. Never, ever split the product. In other words, don't buy a big dog flea and tick product to split and apply onto two medium-sized dogs. This is very dangerous, and the product is not labeled or intended to be split this way.
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"HOLLY"
Summer is here and the Heat is back -
Heat stroke can occur in pretty much anyone. Heat stroke occurs when your body temperature gets so high that it cannot regulate itself and starts to cause your body to shut down. It occurs in humans quite a bit. Most people do not know that in animals it occurs a lot more and a lot quicker than in humans. This is mainly because animals have fur, and so cannot sweat. Sweating is what helps to prevent us from ending up with heat stroke. The only way animals have to prevent heat stroke is by panting, and it is not that effective when it comes right down to it. And it is not just dogs either than suffer from heat stroke, cats, rabbits, and even reptiles can suffer from heat stroke. So it is very important to be educated on heat stroke, the causes of heat stroke, the signs and what to do when you witness these signs. Most of all, it is important to know the steps to take to prevent heat stroke.
At a resting state, a dog's normal temperature will range between 100.5 and 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. If your companion?s temperature rises above 105 degrees, changes within the body will begin, which triggers the beginning of heat stroke. There are several signs to keep an eye out for when it comes to your pet getting heat stroke. If you begin to notice that you pet is panting a lot more excessively than normal, this is usually the first sign. Other one's to keep an eye out for are increased salivation, with the saliva being thicker, gums that are dry and begin to get pale or a gray color, as well as tacky, or you may notice that their pulse is a lot faster than normal or if it is erratic. Your pet may also become weak or confused, or may suffer from diarrhea, vomiting and there is even the possibility of rectal bleeding (Dog heat stroke survival guide: Know how to treat and prevent this dangerous condition). You may also notice that your pet is not obeying your commands, they may get glassy eyes and stare into outer space (Dogs beat the heat: How is your dog coping). If the heat stroke has set in pretty far by the time you notice it, they may have all ready collapsed or have a seizure as well. These signs are signs not only for your pet dog, but also for any of your other pets as well. The signs, as I am sure you can see, are very similar to those of a human. The main difference is that heat stroke is more common and sets in extremely faster in animals than in humans.
At the onset of heat stroke, it really does begin to shut down the body to make up for the energy it is losing. You really should be able to notice your animal getting extremely tired. If you catch it right away and go to a shady area, there usually is not much of an after affect on the body. Heat stroke really can wreck some havoc on your pet, even if your pet gets through the actual signs of heat stroke. If your dog gets to temperatures between 106 and 108 degrees, he begins to suffer damage to his kidneys, his liver, his gastrointestinal tract, heart and his brain all of which are irreversible (Dog heat stroke survival guide). Because most cases of heat stroke also suffer from dehydration, your pet's blood becomes thicker and thus there are extra stresses placed on the heart while it tries to pump this thicker blood. This will result in the stagnation of the blood, blood clots and, if it last long enough, the death of tissues throughout the body (Heat stroke and malignant hyperthermia in dogs and cats). Once again, the affects of heat stroke are pretty similar between all animals. It really depends on how high the internal temperature of your animal and how long the heat stroke lasts that determines what the effects will be.
Heat stroke really does run up there in the number of deaths is causes to our pets each summer, during the hot season. The number of actual heat stroke cases is extremely high, but luckily a lot of cases result in an ending that is happier than that of the death of their beloved pet. However, there is still just too many deaths caused as the result of the onset of heat stroke. Unbelievably, the number one cause of deaths of animals, when it comes to heat stroke deaths, is by leaving your companion in a vehicle that does not offer enough ventilation in this hot weather. Most do not realize that when it is only a 70- to 80 degree day, even with the windows open, that the inside of your vehicle can heat up to over 100 degrees and fast within minutes! Most think that they are safe to leave their pets in the vehicle as long as you leave the windows cracked, but that just does not offer enough ventilation to keep it cool enough for your pet. Recent heat stroke cases that were seen by Dr. Doug Mader included a dog that was left in a parked car for two hours luckily he lived. Another case, there were two dogs that were taken out by their owners for normal exercise. One of these pups lived, while the other is still in the ICU we only wish the best for him. Lastly, Dr, Mader had a case where a pet iguana was left in the sun. He was left in a place where there was no shade offered. Luckily, the iguana lived as well (The heat can prove deadly to unattended pets, http://keysnews.com/node/13429). So fortunately, most of these cases did not result in the death of the animal.
So, you are out playing with your dog and you see that he is panting quite hard and that he seems to be getting really tired. When you pet him you notice that he is very warm. What do you do? You need to get him cooled down. You can do this in many different ways, but the best option is to get him wet. However, you do not want to just throw him in water that is cold like a bath or a lake as a sudden rush of too cold of water can actually cause more severe problems. Use a hose to hose him down little by little. If you have a kiddie pool, or if you stay close to shore where it is shallow, you can put him in there, and then splash the water up on him and all over. Do not offer water at this time. If you feel that your pet absolutely needs some water, do not allow your pet to gulp the water because that can also cause problems. Usually it is only recommended to offer water after your dog has cooled down a bit as you also want to make sure that they are not dehydrated. Another thing you should not do is just put a towel that is watered down over the back of your companion. This actually does the complete opposite, as it traps heat in. You also want to try to get him and stay in the shade, as that will also really help. Another big thing is that you want to try to keep the dog moving. Don't let him just lay there, get him to at least stand up, and as soon as he has some of his energy back, get him to walk around slowly. Most think that performance drinks that are good for humans would also be good for your dog, but it is not true. Do not offer these drinks to your pet. If your dog refuses to drink water, try to offer him chicken or beef based broths ? these are better options. You also want to call your vet and bring him in right away. Even if you are able to get his temperature down, you still want to bring him in because the vet will check his vitals, lungs and kidneys to be sure they were not affected by the onset of heat stroke. You also want to keep an eye on your pet for up to 48 hours after the fact as sometimes it can take that long for certain results of the heat stroke to set in.
Well, you know the signs, symptoms, and how to treat heat stroke. What about skipping all of that and just preventing heat stroke? There are many ways to prevent heat stroke. Because the number one way animals get and die from heat stroke is by leaving them in your vehicle, the most obvious prevention is to not leave your beloved pet in the vehicle even for just a couple of minutes. It does not take long for your car to become extremely hot. You want to make sure you offer a lot of water to your pet while he is out playing. You also want to make sure there's shade wherever you are at for a little rest every once in a while. If you pet is mostly outside during the day, you want to make sure that his doghouse is not primarily enclosed the more air can get through it, the better. You also want to make sure there is enough shade offered throughout the entire day remember that the sun moves and thus so do shady spots. Make sure that there is water available all throughout the day. Make sure the water is also in the shade so that your companion does not have to drink hot water. It is also a good idea to put out two water bowls, just in case one tips. If you do take your dog for a walk daily, when it is really hot out, take him earlier in the morning, or later at night when it is cooler. Another good idea is to purchase one of those kiddie pools to put a little water in for your dog to jump in and out of, or if that is not an option, you can get a sandbox and just keep it moist for your pet as well just know that they will more than likely dig in it and play around. One pet owner even went as far as putting in a cooling and heating system in their pet's dog house so that they did not have to worry about whether it was too hot or too cold for their beloved dogs when they were at work. Even though this may seem a little far-fetched, but the concept has actually spread out quite a bit, especially in areas that suffer from really high temperatures. So, this may or may not be an option for you and your pets as well. The best option really is to train your dogs to be indoor dogs where it is cooler at all times. The only thing you have to be aware of with indoor dogs is that they are a lot more susceptible to getting heat stroke than dogs that are outdoor dogs. This is simply because outdoor dogs become acclimated to the weather and can handle it a lot better than dogs that are primarily indoors and only go outside occasionally.
No matter which way you look at it, heat stroke can be a real bad thing. It can be fatal to your loved ones. Knowing the signs and symptoms will let you know when it is time to take action and get your pet cooled down. Knowing how to prevent the onset of heat stroke is even more important, because then you can hopefully steer clear of heat stroke in your pets all together. If you do notice signs of heat stroke, take action right away and get your pet to the vet as soon as possible to prevent fatal damage and even the death of your companion. Remember that heat stroke can affect any of your pets, not just your dogs. Most of all, don't leave your pets in your vehicles, even with the windows cracked, because that is just an accident waiting to happen. Most of all, love your pets, play with your pets and stay cool with your pets!
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Black pups face doggie discrimination
Dark-coated pooches tend to linger in shelters the longest
By Melissa Dahl
Health writer
msnbc.com
Big, black dogs are often the last to be adopted from animal shelters ? a phenomenon known in pet rescue circles as "black dog syndrome."
It's not like Pamela Gregg was a stranger to helping out the underdog. She thought she knew what kinds of pooches linger the longest in animal shelters: Older dogs, abused dogs, sick or injured dogs ? dogs like George Bailey, the hound mix she'd rescued after he'd been struck by a car.
But black dogs? While searching for a companion for George Bailey, Gregg was shocked to see a banner on an Ohio animal shelter's Web site that detailed how tough it is for big dogs with black coats to find homes.
"It said something like, 'We know that you people prefer colors, but we've got wonderful black dogs here, won't you please consider them?'" recalls Gregg, who's 49 and lives in Xenia, Ohio. "I was shocked, because I think that black dogs are beautiful ? and I couldn't believe people would not get a dog based on its color."
To the uninitiated, the idea seems so strange ? doggie discrimination? But among those in animal rescue circles, the phenomenon is commonplace enough to have earned its own name: "black dog syndrome."
"There's not a lot of that type of statistics on many aspects of sheltering," says Kim Intino, the director of animal sheltering issues for the Humane Society of the United States. "But I think that every person that has worked in a shelter can attest that in shelters animals with black coats can be somewhat harder to adopt out ? or to even get noticed."
Even after a year had passed at a Los Angeles animal shelter, no one had noticed Estelle. Except, of course, for the staff; they fawned over the big black dog and her gentle demeanor. They started letting Estelle roam the office during the day, which let one couple see her in action ? outside her cage and calmly interacting with people. They fell for her, and took her home.
But not every black dog is lucky enough to get that kind of special attention, says Madeline Bernstein, the president of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals in Los Angeles.
"They're the hardest to adopt out, they're in the shelters the longest and therefore, they're most likely to be euthanized if nothing happens," Bernstein says. (Breeders don't tend to face this problem at the level that shelters do, simply because they have fewer animals to deal with than a city shelter that takes strays in every day.)
Bernstein has plenty of theories about why people might not want black dogs in animal shelters. It's mostly an unconscious thing, she says, which may explain why black cats have the same problems finding a home. People who are aware of superstitions about black cats (don't let them cross your path!) may also be unconsciously harboring superstitions about black dogs.
In British folklore, such as stories by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and Sir Walter Scott, the black dog is a creepy, spectral figure that haunts cemeteries and is an omen of death. (Non-lit geeks who've never heard of those stories have at least seen "Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban," in which a big black dog called the Grim stalks Harry.) Another Englishman, Winston Churchill, battled serious bouts of depression which he called "the black dog."
But some speculate that black dogs just don't have the right look to catch the eye of potential adopters.
"Black dogs might appear older; even when they're young, they have bits of facial hair that may be white or gray," Bernstein says. And the ignored breeds are often those who simply look a little big and scary, and whose bad reputations may have preceded them, such as Rottweiler, Doberman pinscher and pit bull mixes.
Bernstein says some people turn in their black dogs to the shelters because they've gotten new furniture and don't like the dark fur their pet sheds.
Too hard to see
But it may be the simplest reason that's costing these dogs a good home ? their black coats can make them invisible in poorly lit kennels. (Same problem happens with amateur photos on shelters' Web sites, which is how many people find the dog they intend to adopt.)
"Sometimes if a potential adopter sees a whole row of black dogs, they think, 'Maybe they're not being adopted for a good reason. Maybe there's something wrong with these dogs,'" Bernstein says.
So volunteers at some shelters put extra energy into getting their black dogs noticed. They place brightly colored, eye-catching blankets and toys in their kennels. At Bernstein's shelters, they tie pink ribbons around the necks of the girls, and fasten big bow ties around the necks of the boys.
"In our kennels, the black dogs are all decked out," Bernstein says.
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"LACEY"
Hiring a dog walker should be considered an important decision worthy of time and thought. After all, this person will be spending a great portion of time with your ever-developing puppy or dog. Feeling comfortable with your walker to enter your home and to handle your most prized pup is essential.
1. Allow Time & Do Your Homework! - There are plenty of dog walking services out there. Don't just hire the first one you reach. Give yourself the necessary time to make this hire. Searching the internet on a Sunday in order to start walks on Monday is not fair to you or the dog. A reputable person/organization will also need time to meet with you and your dog, process your paperwork, and fit you into the busy schedule.
2. Professionalism/Commitment - Is this person or company committed to servicing the needs of both you and your dog? Is the company bonded/insured? Can they provide references? Consistency is very important & will take a lot of pressure off of you knowing your dog will be cared for in your absence. Make sure that this is not just a money making job. Your walker should be committed to the daily responsibility of providing the quality care & walking that your dog deserves.
3. Handling Skills & Methods - Get a true sense of this individual's dog handling methods. Ask what if, questions. For example, ask him or her, How will you react if my dog jumps up on you when you come into my home, or on a neighbor on the street? How will you react if my puppy has a housetraining accident in the house? The answer will give you an idea of his or her handling methods, and how they would respond in specific situations. Make sure you are comfortable with the answer given. If it seems harsh or completely out of line with your reaction, it may not be the best fit. Also, please be aware that dog training and dog walking are very different. Walkers are not usually educated in dog training and you should seek advice from a professional trainer when addressing any undesired habits or behaviors.
4. Routine & Consistency - Make sure that the walker is willing to and able to adhere to your routine with your dog. While the walker will be spending a lot of time with your pet, it is you that lives with the dog and will be responsible for his behavior. If your dog walker allows pulling on leash, barking at other dogs, jumping up on other people, you are essentially paying them to inappropriately train the dog! This only leads to more confusion, frustration and prolonged training for you and your dog. Be sure to use the same training vocabulary (down for no jumping, and down, for lay down can be very confusing for your pup!). Be clear about what is appropriate and inappropriate behavior. Let them know how you react and address specific behaviors. Consistency is the key to developing a well-mannered dog. Every person your dog's life should take care to provide a consistent message.
5. Communication Contact information is important. A walker should know how and where you can be reached. Where the vet office is and your preference for an emergency contact. It's cause for concern if a walker does not ask for this information. Daily communication is also key and often the only way to stay informed about your dog's walking and potty schedule. Ask the walker if they leave a daily note about your dog's walk. If not, communication may not be a top priority for this walker.
Your dog will thank you for all the time and consideration you put into finding the right match.
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Published by Puppy Care Blogger
When it comes to dog boarding, it's important to remember that you can find quality care, whether it's Ann Arbor dog boarding or Albuquerque. It's probably easy to find Ann Arbor dog grooming, but have you considered how difficult it is to find good dog boarding in YOUR town?
Do your due diligence prior to retaining dog boarding services. Emergencies are just that; they're unexpected, so be prepared to provide care for your pet when they happen.
There are some easy steps to follow when you're determining the right dog boarding facility. Quality dog boarding facilities will have reasonable hours of operation, scheduled daily exercise for the dogs, socialization with other dogs (if appropriate), regular feeding and medication delivery, and comprehensive emergency procedures. If your pet has health problems that require special attention, be sure the dog boarding facility is equipped to handle his needs.
It's a good idea (and polite!) to schedule your tour ahead of time if you're planning to tour a dog boarding facility. Ask questions over the phone; it's a good idea to choose the ones that are deal-breakers, so that you don't waste a visit if the facility is unable to meet your needs. No need to make a trip if they don't offer as much exercise as you want, or are unable to accommodate your special needs. Upscale facilities may offer additional fringe benefits, like dog grooming.
When you're on your tour of a dog boarding facility, be sure to check to be sure proper licenses are maintained and displayed. It's always a good idea to check with your local Better Business Bureau to determine whether other clients are pleased with their service. Obviously, take a look around and note whether the rooms are clean and tidy. If you're near water, it isn't a bad idea to note whether or not the building is in a flood zone. If you are requesting dog grooming during your pet?s stay, be sure to review past work and that it is to your satisfaction.
All these factors come into play when making the important decision as to where you'll board your dog when you go out of town, or otherwise need care of your dog away from home. Quality facilities are nearby, you just have to do the legwork to find them!
